Zanskar Dream Trek Rangdum to Phuktal
Ladakh Zanskar Trek
Zanskar is a small Tibetan Buddhist Kingdom, lying just north of the main Himalayan range and about 120 miles long. It is part of the former Kingdom of Ladakh, and up until relatively recent times, its two ‘Kings’, or Gyalpos (precious rulers), mediated local disputes and in ancient times, collected taxes for the main King of Ladakh.
Our Zanskar trek takes us completely off the beaten track, trekking through very remote country. Starting near Mount Nun, we gradually make our way through the mountains into Zanskar. Trekking up through a series of gorges that can only be navigated when water levels are low, we head towards Phuktal monastery.
This is one of our most exciting and diverse trekking routes, a stunningly beautiful and challenging trek through remote canyon lands, crossing many high Himalayan passes (most 5000+ meters), and trekking through the hidden, green valleys and villages of mythical Ladakh and Zanskar.
You will pass through many villages along the way and meet with locals at their homes, who are with our Zanskari staff. Spectacular view of the Greater Himalayan range and its peak rising above 7000m. Some of the best views are Nun 7135m, Kun 7077m, and Doda 6550m.
We begin this epic trip at delightful Rangdum and pass Pikdong La (Puzdong La) to the remote but friendly Dibling village. From Dibling, you follow the Oma Chu to the base of Hanuma la to the large plains of Zanskar at Padum. Here, you will have the opportunity to visit several sights. From Zangl, we take the wild Zanskar trail where only a few trekkers find their way to Shade village. Shade is the most remote and scenic place in Zanskar, where you will experience the traditional Zanskari village life in this far-flung village. Along the Tsarap River to one of the most spectacular sights of our trek to Phuktal, and finally exploring the high villages of Southern Zanska, where our trek ends, we drive to Shinku La pass to Manali.
You will drive on the Leh-Manali highway to the hill resort town of Manali. Relax a day at this hill station before making a final departure to Delhi. Our unique adventurous Grand Traverse of Zanskar – Join us.
ZANSKAR TREK RANGDUM TO PHUKTAL
Day 1 – Delhi – Leh flight, Arrive at Leh (3,600 m), Airport pickup, Check into Hotel, Relax.
Day 2 – Leh Acclimatization and sightseeing at Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Tsemo Gompa, Spituk
Day 3 – Leh: Acclimatization and Sightseeing at Shey, Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis & Matho.
Day 4 - Drive Mulbekh, cross Namika La (3820m).
Day 5 - Drive to Kargil, Suru Valley & Rangdum Zanskar, passing by the Nun Kun Peaks & Glaciers, and visit Rangdum Gonpa.
Day 6 - Trek Yak Camp
Day 7 – Trek Base Camp Pudzong La (4400 m)
Day 8 - Trek Pudzong la (5029m) - Dibling doksa (4200m) - Dibling (4000m)
Day 9 - Trek Lingshed Sumdo (3680m)
Day 10 - Trek Barmi la (4694m) – Lanang Sumdo (4000m)
Day 11 - Trek Zingchen (3370 m) via Hanuma La (4700m)
Day 12 - Trek Hanumil (3400 m) via Perfi La (3900m)
Day 13 - Trek Pidmo (3420m) – Zangla River camp.
Day 14 - Zangla River Camp & Central Zanskar Day Trip visit Thongde – Karsha – Sani - Padum (3,600m).
Day 15 - Trek Tsazar Doksa Sumdo (3,900 m).
Day 16 - Trek Pandang La High camp (4,450 m).
Day 17 - Trek Yangdam Chen (4,220 m) Cross Pandang La (5,110 m)
Day 18 - Trek Mitsik Doksa (4,285 m), Cross Liyu La (4,375 m) & Lar La (4,690 m)
Day 19 - Trek Shade (4,220 m) via Rotang La (4,900 m)
Day 20 - Trek Yatah hidden camp (4,000 m)
Day 21 - Trek Phuktal (3,900 m), Drive Purne (3,800m)
Day 22 - Purne – Manali via Shinku La (5090 m).
Day 23 - Manali to Delhi private taxi or Overnight Volvo bus
Day 24 - Depart Delhi.
Cost Includes
ü All Ground Transportation to & fro as per the Itinerary, Leh to Manali.
ü Leh Airport Transfers & Leh Sightseeing Tour, Manali to Delhi transfer.
ü Central Zanskar Valley Day Trip.
ü 5 Nights of Hotel Accommodation in Leh, 3 nights on (day 1,2,3), Manali 1 night on (day 22), Delhi 1 night on (day 23) at CP Plan.
ü 1 night (day 4) of hotel/homstay/tented accommodation at Mulbekh, breakfast, dinner.
17-Night Camp (days 5 to 21) with all Camping facilities. 3 men spacious 4-season tents for 2, Sleeping bags, foam Mattresses, Dining tent, Camp chair/table, Trekking poles & Safety gear.
ü All Meals during the Trek start with Bed Tea to Breakfast, Lunch, 3-Course Dinner, Tea /Coffee, and snacks, from Indian, Tibetan, and Chinese to Continental Cuisine.
ü Support staff: English-speaking local Trekking Guide, Cook & Camp Crew.
ü Trekking Mules, Horses for carrying Luggage & Trekking Gear.
ü Camping fees, Goods & services Tax.
ü Restricted Area Permits.
ü Basic first-aid medical kit, oxygen cylinder, oximeter.
REVIEWS
"The whole Trek was fantastic and a very special experience for us. We learned a lot about the country and the people there, saw fantastic landscapes and climbed high passes. Sherab was a great guide, showed us a lot of animals and their footprints, even snow leopards, he talked to everybody beside the trek and we were invited for teaand curt and chang, Ravi Is the best cook between Manali and Leh and every day we got the best food and Service.Deepak also was working very hard and was a good camp boy. Our horseman did a great Job, Jai looked always for his horses, and no one was injured or in bad condition.We can recommend you and your company from the first to the last step. Also, you did organize everything for the best, the equipment was perfect, the provided food and the services we booked If we come back to this region and plan similar treks, we sure will do this with you..Best greetings"
Mr. Manmayer - Germany - Couple
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"5* - Excellent - A VERY SPECIAL EXPERIENCE! We did this trek in summer 2017 - it was a very special experience. As promised, the route was really wild & remote. Overall I can say that the trip was very well organised, we had a very competent guide (Sherab) and an excellent cook (Indra). The trek is physically quite demanding, but the experience is well worth it. Especially the river crossings I remember very well. Bring a large brimmed hat and wear long-sleeve shirts. The air is very dry, it took us some time to adapt to it.
Some other impressions:
Very good hotel in Leh (quiet location, large room).
Excellent & diverse food - even after many days of walking without the chance of re-supplying (amazing what Indra could do on the gasoline cookers).
Very helpful & friendly team.
Our families at home we notified via e-mail about our location & condition. Sherab used the satellite phones in the villages to talk to Prem.
Sherab knew many people along the route and we were often invited into the houses.
We saw among others, blue sheep and ibex. There were fresh tracks of bear and snow leopard."
Mr. Rene - couple - Switzerland
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"Salut Prem - Nous avons tardé à te répondre, enfin nous te donnons des nouvelles. Pour nous tout va bien, le retour s’était bien passé et nous avons encore pleins de souvenirs dans nos têtes. Encore mille mercis pour ce beau trek! C’était formidable, plein de magnifiques paysages et de très belles rencontres!
Mr. Marc & group of 4 - France - 1 to 31 Aug
Welcome
to Leh, after your long flight from your hometown to Delhi, and meet with us at
Leh airport. Most of the flight arrives in Leh in the morning time and the rest
of the day is free to relax and acclimatize to the altitude of 3,600 m as well
as visit the Leh bazaar.
Today, sightseeing around Leh, visit the Royal Palace of
Leh from the 16th century, and continue through the fields of Sankar monastery,
which adjoins north Leh. Continue to the Shanti Stupa and finally end your day
with a visit to Spituk Gompa. Our driver will pick you up from the hotel at
8:30 am after breakfast. Finish your day before lunch and you will have time to
go for lunch at Leh Market.
LEH PALACE
Leh Palace, also known as Lachen Palkar Palace, is a former royal
palace overlooking the city of Leh in Ladakh UT, India. It was constructed
circa 1600 AD by Sengge Namgyal. The palace was abandoned when Dogra forces
took control of Ladakh in the mid-19th century and forced the royal family to
move to Stok Palace. It is nine storeys high; the upper floors accommodated the
royal family, while the lower floors held stables and store rooms. Much of
the palace is in deteriorated condition, and little survives of its interior
decorations.
The Palace Museum holds a rich collection of jewellery, ornaments, ceremonial
dresses and crowns. Tibetan thangka or paintings, which are more than
450 years old, with intricate designs, still retain the bright colours derived
from crushed and powdered gems and stones. Structures around the palace's base
include the prominent Namgyal Stupa, the colourfully muraled Chandazik Gompa Avalokitevara,
and the 1430 Chamba Lhakhang (Maitreya
Buddha) with medieval mural fragments located between the inner and outer
walls.
SPITUK MONASTERY
Spituk Monastery, also known as Spituk Gompa or Pethup Gompa, is
a Buddhist monastery in Spituk, Leh, in Ladakh UT, 8 km from Leh. The
site of Spituk was blessed by the Arhat Nyimagung. It was founded by
Od-de, the elder brother of Lha Lama Changchub Od, when he came to Maryul in
the 11th century. He introduced the monastic community. When Lotsewa
(translator) Rinchen Zangpo came, he said that an exemplary religious
community would arise there, and so the monastery was
called spituk (exemplary). During the time of Dharma raja Gragspa
Bum-Ide, the monastery was restored by Lama Lhawang Lodos and the order of
Tsonkhapa was introduced and it has remained intact as such till present.
Founded as a Red Hat institution, the monastery was taken over by the
Gelugpa (Yellow Hat sect) in the 15th century.
The monastery is home to 100 monks and a giant statue
of Kali (unveiled during the annual festival).
Every year the Gustor Festival is held at Spituk
from the 27th to 29th day in the eleventh month of the Tibetan calendar.
A full day of sightseeing and visiting the most important
place in around the Indus Valley. You will have a guide for this day trip,
especially for Gompa. There are many places to visit but we have chosen five
sights which are suitable for a day trip. Leaving from the hotel at 8:30 am
after breakfast you will visit first Shey Palace, then Thiksey. Thiksey
monastery, which is at a distance of 27 km from Hemis, this monastery is the
oldest monastery of Gelugpa School in Ladakh. The great Lama Paldan Shesrap built
it in the 14th century. Here you can see the big statue of the Future Buddha.
Continue to Taktok and Chemdey and return to visit Hemis monastery which
is 45 km far from Leh and it takes a 90-minute drive. The great Mahasiddha
Staktsang Raspa along with great ancestor Singey Namgyal built this biggest
monastery in the 16th century. Continue to Matho then we drive to Stok which is
situated opposite Leh at a distance of 14 km, Stok visits of Royal Palace built
in 1825 AD and the palace has great collections of antiquity. Continue to visit
Matho situated 10 km from Stok, which has a 10th-century complex. Finally back
to Leh and final preparation for trek.
SHEY PALACE
Shey Monastery or Gompa or the Shey Palace are complex
structures located on a hillock in Shey, 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) to the
south of Leh in Ladakh Union Territory, northern India on the
Leh-Manali road. Shey was the summer capital of Ladakh in the past. It contains
a huge Shakyamuni Buddha statue. It is the second largest Buddha statue in
Ladakh.
The original palace, now in ruins, was built near the
Shey village by Lhachen Palgyigon, the king of Ladakh (then called Maryul),
in the 10th century. The Moghul noble Mirza Haidar Dughlat stayed
here during his invasion of Ladakh in the 16th century.
The current Shey Palace and Monastery were also built in
1655 on the instructions of Deldan Namgyal, in the memory of his late
father, Sengge Namgyal, below the first palace. The monastery is
noted for its giant copper with gilded gold statue of a seated Shakyamuni
Buddha. The statue is so named since Buddha was the sage (muni) of the Sakya people
who resided in the Himalayan foothills and their capital was Kapilvastu.
It is said to be the second largest such statue in Ladakh.
Shey was the old capital of the upper Ladakh region. When
the Dogras of Jammu invaded Ladakh in 1842, the Namgyals abandoned
the palace and fled to Stok (they made it their permanent residence) on
the opposite side of the Indus River. It is conjectured that the fort found in
ruins, not dated, above the present palace at Shey, belonged to this period of
invasion. Subsequently, when the political dictates necessitated shifting
of the capital to Leh, even then the importance of Shey continued since it was
a mandatory requirement of the Namgyal kings to father their heir apparent
here. Wikipedia…
THIKSEY MONASTERY
Thiksey Monastery or Thiksey monastery affiliated with the
Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. It is located on top of a hill
in Thiksey approximately 19 kilometres (12 mi) east of Leh, in
the Ladakh region of northern India. It is noted for its
resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa Tibet, and is the largest monastery
in central Ladakh, notably containing a separate set of buildings for female
renunciates that has been the source of significant recent building and
reorganization.
The monastery is located at an altitude of 3,600 metres (11,800 ft) in the
Indus Valley. It is a twelve-storey complex and houses many items of Buddhist
art such as stupas, statues, thangkas, wall paintings and
swords. One of the main points of interest is the Maitreya Temple
installed to commemorate the visit of the 14th Dalai Lama to this
monastery in 1970; it contains a 15 metres (49 ft) high statue of
Maitreya, the largest such statue in Ladakh, covering two stories of the
building.
In the early 15th century, Je Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug
School—often called "the Yellow Hats"—sent six of his disciples to
remote regions of Tibet to spread the teachings of the new school.
Tsongkhapa gave one of his disciples, Jangsem Sherap Zangpo (shes rab
bzang po), a small statue of Amitayus (the sambhogakaya form
of Amitabha), containing bone powder and a drop of Tsongkhapa's own blood.
Tsongkhapa directed him to meet the King of Ladakh with a message seeking his
help in the propagation of Buddhism.
The King, who was then staying in the Nubra Valley near Shey,
loved the gift of the statue. After this meeting, the King directed his
minister to help Sherab Zangpo to establish a monastery of the Gelug order in
Ladakh. As a result, in 1433, Zangpo founded a small village monastery called
Lhakhang Serpo "Yellow Temple" in Stagmo, north of the Indus. In
spite of his efforts, the lamas who embraced the Gelug order were initially
few, although some of his disciples became eminent figures over the years.
In the mid 15th century, Palden Zangpo continued the monastic work started by
his teacher, Sherab Zangpo. He decided to build a larger monastery here that
was dictated by an unusual event that occurred while choosing a site. Legends
narrate that Tsongkhapa had predicted that his doctrine would prosper on the
right bank of the Indus River. This prediction came true when the Thiksey
Monastery was established. This was followed by others such as Spituk Monastery and Likir
Monastery, which are also situated on the right bank of the Indus.
According to legend, Sherab Zangpo and Palden Zangpo were performing sacred
rituals near the Yellow Temple. The torma offerings were then taken
to a rock outcrop to be thrown down to the valley. As they were about to throw
the torma into the valley, two crows appeared and carried away the ceremonial
plate with the offering of torma. They then placed the torma at a location on
the other side of the hill. When Palden Zangpo and his disciples began looking
for the torma, they reached Thiksey, where they found that the crow had placed
the torma on a stone in perfect order and in an undisturbed
condition. Palden took this finding as a divine directive to build the
monastery there. Source Wikipedia…
STAKNA MONASTERY
Stakna Monastery or Stakna Gompa is a Buddhist monastery of
the Drugpa sect in Stakna, Leh, Ladakh Union Territory, northern
India, 21 or 25 kilometres from Leh on the left bank of the Indus River.
It was founded in the late 16th century by a Bhutanese scholar and saint,
Chosje Modzin. The name, literally meaning 'tiger's nose' was given because it
was built on a hill shaped like a tiger's nose. Of note is a sacred Arya
Avalokitesvara statue from Kamrum, Assam. Stakna has a residence of
approximately 30 monks.
It is the only Bhutanese Drukpa Kagyu monastery in Ladakh, headed by the Je
Khenpo in Bhutan, whereas the other Drukpa monasteries in Ladakh are of
the Gyalang Drukp's school, based at Hemis. This split in the Drukpa Kagyu
lineage occurred in the 17th century when there was a dispute over who was the
true reincarnation of the 4th Gyalwang Drukpa. Wikipedia…
HEMIS MONASTERY
Hemis Monastery is a Himalayan monastery (gompa) of the Drukpa Lineage,
in Hemis on the bank of the Indus River, Ladakh UT, India. Situated
45 km from Leh, it was re-established in 1672 by the Ladakhi king Sengge
Namgyal. The annual Hemis festival honouring Padmasambhava is held there
in early June.
Hemis village is located 40 km southeast of Leh on
Leh-Manali Highway and under-construction Bhanupli – Leh line. Hemis
Monastery existed before the 11th century.
In 1894 Russian journalist Nicalas Notovitch claimed
Hemis as the origin of an otherwise unknown gospel, the Life of Saint
Issa, Best of the Sons of Men, in which Jesus is said to have
travelled to India during his 'lost years'. According to Notovitch, the work
had been preserved in the Hemis library and was shown to him by the monks there
while he was recuperating from a broken leg, and his Sherpa guide
translated it for him. Notovich's version of the manuscript was translated
from Tibetan to Russian to French to English. However, historians view
Notovitch as having fabricated the evidence, which he allegedly admitted
himself. Bible scholar Bart D. Ehrman states that "Today there
is not a single recognized scholar on the planet who has any doubts about the
matter. The entire story was invented by Notovitch, who earned a good deal of
money and a substantial amount of notoriety for his hoax."
The Indian Pandit Swami Abhedananda claims to have read
the same manuscript and published his account of viewing it after his visit to
Hemis in 1921. Abhedananda claims on the book jacket that it was
translated for him with the help of a "local Lama interpreter", and
it substantially matched Notovich's publication. After Abhedananda's death, one
of his disciples said that when he went to the monastery to ask about the
documents, he was told that they had disappeared.
The Hemis Festival is dedicated to Lord Padmasambhava (Guru
Rinpoche), revered as the representative reincarnate of Buddha. He is believed
to have been born on the 10th day of the fifth month (non or jyestha) of the
Monkey year of the Tibetan calender, as predicted by the Buddha Shakyamuni. It
is also believed that his life mission was, and remains, to improve the
spiritual condition of all living beings. Therefore, on this day, which comes
once in a cycle of 12 years, Hemis observes a major extravaganza in his memory.
The observance of these sacred rituals is believed to provide spiritual
strength and good health. The Hemis festival takes place in the rectangular
courtyard in front of the main door of the monastery. The space is wide and
open, save for two raised square platforms, three feet high with a sacred pole
in the center. A raised dais with a richly cushioned seat, a finely painted
small Tibetan table, and ceremonial items – cups full of holy water, uncooked
rice, and tormas made of dough and butter, along with incense sticks – are
placed. A number of musicians play traditional music with four pairs of
cymbals, large-pan drums, small trumpets, and large-sized wind instruments.
Next to them, a small space is assigned for the lamas to sit.
The ceremonies begin with an early morning ritual atop
the gompa, where, to the beat of drums, the resounding clash of cymbals, and
the spiritual wail of pipes, the portrait of "Dadmokarpo" or
"Rygyalsras Rinpoche" is ceremoniously displayed for all to admire
and worship.
The most esoteric festivities include the mystic mask
dances. The mask dances of Ladakh are collectively referred to as chams
performances. Chams performances are essentially part of the Tantric tradition,
performed only in those gompas that follow the Tantric Vajrayana teachings,
and the monks perform tantric worship. Wikipedia…
MATHO MONASTERY
Matho Monastery, or Matho Gonpa or Mangtro
Monastery or Mangtro Gonpa, from the Tibetan "mang" that
means "many" and "tro" that means "happiness", is
a Tibetan Buddhist monastery located 26 kilometres southeast of Leh
in Ladakh UT, northern India, on the banks of the Indus River. The
village of Matho is located at the mouth of a deep gorge running out of
the Zanskar Range and across the Indus. It is directly opposite Thikse Monastery.
Matho and Skidmang in the eastern Ladakh (130 km to
the east of Leh) are the only example in Ladakh of the Sakyapa sect
of Tibetan Buddhism. Because Matho does not lie on the main highway from Leh,
it sees fewer visitors than Hemis, Thiske or Shey. However, it is known to
outsiders for its annual Oracle Matho Nagrang Festival, held on the 14th and
15th days of the first month of the Tibetan calendar. During this festival, two
oracles, known as "Rongtsan", are said to inhabit for a few hours the
body of two monks. The purpose of these oracles is to attempt to predict the
fortunes of the local village communities for the coming year. Two monk that
are to be the oracles vehicles are chosen every three years by the monks of the
monastery for a duration of 3 years. The first year the monks will have to
meditate for 9 months before the festival. The following two years the meditation
will last 2 months. When the two monk come out from the retreat, all the monks
will gather together to form a circle. The names of the two monks will be
placed in a bowl. The bowl is then sealed and passed from one monk to the next
until one name comes out from the bowl - this monk is chosen by the monastery's
protector to perform the oracle.
Matho is also home to a collection of thangkas dating
back to the 14th century.
Founded in 1410 by Lama Dugpa Dorje, it belongs to the Sakya Order.
It is noted for its six-hundred-year-old thangkas and its Matho
Nagrang Festival.
The gompa is the only one in Ladakh belonging
to the Sakyapa and is said to be one of the few which is seeing an increase of
monks in recent years.
Most of the buildings are rather dilapidated but there is
a new assembly hall or du-khang which was built in 2005 and which has
very colourful paintings and a Sakyamuni Buddha as main statue. There is a
small chapel on the top story containing images of Sakya Pandita and
other Sakya lamas. There is a 'museum' adjoining it with a number of very
beautiful old thangkas, some of which are thought to have been brought
from Tibet in the first half of the 15th century when the monastery was
founded. Unfortunately, many of them are very worn. The masks and robes worn by
the lamas in the annual dance festival may also be seen in the museum.
The annual festival of the two Rongtsan oracles takes place around the Buddhist
new year, usually in the first half of March. Two monk are chosen every three
years to get ready as the potential receptacles. They purify themselves with
months of fasting and meditation to make themselves suitable receptacles for
receiving the oracles spirits. When possessed they are said to be able to perform
many astounding feats such as cutting themselves with knives and walking around
the ramparts of the top storey blindfolded with no fear of falling down the
precipice below. While in this trance state they answer questions about the
prospects for Matho and Ladakh for the coming year as well as personal
questions put to them by individuals. However, if skeptical questions are put
to the oracle to test him, he is said to react "with a frenzied display of
anger."
Today we board our private vehicle and drive to the
timeless Lamayuru Gompa en route first visit to Likir than Alchi Gompa,
situated at a distance of 68 km from Leh. Its monastery was built on lowlands
rather than on a hilltop as others are, to protect from enemies. The Chortens
around Alchi Gompa contains numerous murals of Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo, who
built this monastery. Alchi monastery has vast collections of wall paintings
and wood sculptures. We continue to drive to Lamayuru which is 58 km from
Alchi. The oldest monastery in Ladakh was founded by Indian scholar
Mahasiddhacharya Naropa in the 11th century. Lamayuru hosts a mask dance
festival (Yuru Kabgyat) during the 17th and 18th day of the fifth months of the
Tibetan Lunar calendar. It belongs to the red hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism; the
monastery is rich with Thankas and wall paintings. Lamayuru monastery was
constructed by Arahat Nimagung between the 10th and 11th centuries. History
says that in the 11th century, the Mahasidha Naropa visited this place and the
cave where he resided and meditated is still to be seen inside the monastery.
This is mostly visited by travelers located on the Srinagar - Leh road. Enjoy
homestay at Lamayuru or Mulbekh.
MULBEKH MONASTERY (GOMPA) 3505m
“Mulbekh Monastery (Gompa) consists of the 9m tall Maitreya Buddha statue, the
1400 CE kharosti language edicts on the hill, and two 800 years old gompas,
Serdung Gompa of Drukpa lineage and Rgaldan-se Gompa of Gelugpa. Rgaldan-se
Gompa, established by Tungba Lzawa who is also known as Agu Tungba, was
renovated in 2016. The Nyima Lhakhang temple was built around 800 years ago in
the oldest section of the Mulbekh Monastery by the students of the great
Tibetan scholar Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo, and houses Lhakhang, or sacred objects.
The double gompas are dramatically situated at the very top of a crag 200m
above the road. They were connected with the nearby palace of Raja Kalon of
Mulbekh, rreached by a steep footpath winding up from behind.
Mulbekh Chamba | The Chamba is one of the three tallest rock cut relief statue
of Buddha in Ladakh, which are collectively also known as the “Bamyan Buddhas
of Ladakh”. The famous rock cut Chamba Statue in Mulbekh village, a striking
enormous figure carved into the rock face on the right hand side of the road.
It is a 9m tall Maitreya Buddha (Buddha who will be reborn, also called the
“chamba” in local language) statue overlooking the old trade route and modern
highway. It dates to the Kushan period dating to 1st century BC to 6th century
CE, predating Tibetan Buddhism and now-destroyed 6th century Buddhas of Bamiyan
of Afghanistan. Modern scholars date it as being from around the eighth
century. Unfortunately, the lower part of the statue is partly obscured by a
small temple built in 1975.
Nearby are some ancient rock inscriptions or edict
written in Kharosthi script that issue an edict to the local people to
discontinue sacrificing goats. The edit was written by King Bhum Ide
(Tsongkapa), who ruled western Ladakh around 1400 CE. His younger brother,
Dragspa, ruled the rest of Ladakh. Tsongkapa, called Bhum Ide, was a king and
great reformer of Buddhism who lived in Ladakh from 1378 – 1441 CE, and set up
monasteries near Leh at Spitok, Sangkar, Phyang and Trigtse. He removed the
discrepancies from the current practices, and made the monks switch from Red
Hat sect to Yellow Hat sect. One of his successors, King Trashi (1500 -1530
CE), also made it mandatory for Ladakhi families to send at least one or two
children to become monk who did not have to be the eldest child.
Every year at least once or twice in each
village the heart was torn out of a living goat in front of an altar. King Lde
had the following inscription carved: “Oh Lama (Tsongkapa [1378-1441), take
notice of this! The king of faith, Bum lde, having seen the fruits of works in
the future life, gives orders to the men of Mulbe to abolish, above all, the
living sacrifices, and greets the Lama. The living sacrifices are abolished.”
The people of Mulbekh found this too onerous to follow, for beside King Lde’s
edict, on the same rock, is an inscription saying the order was too hard to be
executed. “For what would the local deity say, if the goat were withheld from
him?” – Wikipedia
Distance Driving: 179km, 5-6 hrs drive) (B, L, D)
Leaving Mulbekh, we drive 35 km following the Wakka Chu
to the road just before Kargil from where we turn left. The journey from Kargil to Rangdum is
a scenic traverse through the Suru Valley, serving as the gateway to the
Zanskar region. The distance is approximately 130 km. Typically takes 4–6
hours by car, though it can take longer for photographers or due to road
conditions. The road stretch from Kargil to Rangdum is generally smooth and tarred.
The route is known for its dramatic transitions from lush green valleys to
desolate mountain landscapes. Sankoo & Kartse Khar: Famous for a
7-meter tall rock-carved Maitreya Buddha statue dating back to the
7th or 8th century. Panikhar & Parkachik, these villages offer stunning
views of the Nun (7,135m) & Kun (7,077m) peaks, the highest in the
Zanskar range. Parkachik Glacier, A massive glacier visible directly from
the road. Rangdum is a small, remote settlement located at an altitude of
approximately 3,657 meters (12,000 ft). Rangdum Monastery: An
18th-century Gelugpa monastery perched on a hilltop that resembles a sugarloaf.
RANGDUM MONASTERY (GONPA)
Rangdum Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery belonging to the
Gelugpa sect, situated on top of a small but steep sugarloaf hill at an
altitude of 4,031 m (13,225 ft) at the head of the Suru Valley, in Ladakh.
It is next to the tiny village of Julidok (Zulidok), and about 25 km north
of the 4,400 m (14,436 ft) Pensi La (pass), which leads into
Zanskar. It is on Padum – Sankoo - Kargil Road, 103 km northwest
of Padum, 87 km southeast of Sankoo & 196 southeast of Kargil. The
monastery was electrified using solar energy in June 2017 by Global Himalayan
Expedition (GHE). According to an inscription the monastery was built by Gelek
Yashy Takpa during the reign of King Tsewang Namgyal (1753-1782) of
Ladakh. Although it is physically in the Suru Valley, it is culturally part of
Zanskar.
Because the summer's brevity sometimes interferes with crop harvests, to
supplement the locally produced dairy products, both the village and the
monastery depend on outside supplies brought up the largely barren Suru Valley,
or over the 4,400 metre (14,436 ft) Pensi La pass from Zanskar. The
monastery was electrified using solar energy in June 2017 by Global Himalayan
Expedition, along with the nearby village of Shakma Karpo. The first two female
engineers of the region trained by Barefoot College and GHE executed the
project.
The monastery is home to about 30 monks and almost as many donkeys. To
ensure income for the nearby local communities, GHE has set up homestays in the
villages, allowing travelers to visit the monastery while experiencing an
authentic culture in the homestays.
After breakfast start trekking up the large valley
heading east-northeast, which leads to the Kanji La. This is the way you will
follow, but instead of crossing the Kanji La, you turn off to go over the
Pudzong La Pass. For the first hour, or so, you walk on the riverbed and then
the path gradually contours up the right-hand mountain-side. A huge, contorted
cliff appears on the other side, thousands of feet high. Then below you,
instead of sloping banks leading to the river plain, the river emerges from a square-cut
gorge. This box canyon is made up of glacial deposit which the river, over
millennia, has cut through. Your path has contoured the mountainside well above
this. You may hear lots of squeaking marmots and see eagles soaring above. The
gorge below is certainly very impressive and after some time, you will see an
equally impressive side gorge entering from the other side of the river. After
three hours, you stop for lunch at some old shepherds' stone huts, and one hour
after that there is an easy river crossing.
There is a camp just before the Kanji La turn off, but
this is very small and not suitable for a group with a number of tents, so it's
much better to continue to a nicer and far more spacious camp another 3 hours
or so up the valley. You will therefore continue to contour along parallel to
the gorge below, with the path rising slightly. In about 40 minutes you will
reach the Kanji La junction and 20 minutes or so beyond here, look back and you
will see framed in the end of the valley magnificent views of the peaks of Nun
and Kun.
Distance 12 km, 6 hrs trek
Soon
after leaving the camp, we cross the large river right as we leave our
campsite. Heading to the right at river level and joining the main trail coming
from Dibling.
We continue to contour, staying high through grassy, rocky hillsides with marmots
sticking their heads out of their holes, sunning themselves on rocks, and
whistling at our approach, the valley decorated with colorful mountain flowers.
It’s a 1½ hour's hike to the intersection of the route to Dibling (at our old
campsite across the river), the ‘sumdo’ of two major river valleys. We
continue along a similar trail and reach a smaller valley where we descend,
cross a small stream, and then hike back up. The valley is rockier and more
undulating, and we soon see our campsite across a wide valley in front of us.
But before reaching it, though, we have to descend again to a surging river and
try to cross on an old bridge, often washed away. One more climb and we’ve
reached our lovely campsite atop a relatively flat plateau, a snowcapped valley
to our right.
This is an amazing day! From Camp you turn up a
stunningly beautiful valley with a snake-like stream coming down from a wall of
snow-covered peaks at the end. You toil up the right-hand side of the valley
wondering where the hell the pass is. It looks seriously difficult ahead, but
in fact the pass itself is hidden out of sight. You carry on now to a shoulder
which provides quite a nice rest spot and then descend to the river bed. This
is about one and a half hours from Hell Camp. You now have to cross the stream
several times, but at this time of the year it should be just easy
boulder-hopping. You are now in the upper part of the valley and you may well
come across snow banks covering the stream. Eventually, you exit the rocky
river bed, finally climbing to a shoulder where some years there is the start
of the snow approaching the pass. By now you will be able to see that your path
leading to the pass is either an easy trail on broken shale or an easy
snow-slog. Crampons and ice axes are unnecessary and it is unlikely you will
need gaiters. 3 km distance from camp to pass with a 500m gain.
So having taken three hours to get to the pass, it is now
only a two hour descent to the valley some 900m/3,000ft below. Leaving the
pass, snow slopes and then rocks lead to a gulch down which the zigzag path
brings you out past fantastic pale gold rock walls and towers on either side to
the wide valley. There are breathtaking views looking right down the sweeping
valley to where you are going to camp tonight. We should say here also that the
views from the Pudzong La are superb - snowy peaks in every direction. You will
stop for lunch once out of the steeper sections although it may be cold and
windy and you may wish to hurry on. The camp is at 4,150m/13,616ft amongst an
area of clumpy small trees and bushes between the junctions of two streams,
with fabulous views. Ahead, and framed at the end of the valley, is a distant
pointed rock peak.
Leaving camp, you stroll easily down the left-hand side
of the valley past some deserted houses and some unworked fields. Another hour
from here brings you to the pretty village of Dibling where there are some 14
houses and a gompa. The monastery, as with virtually all Ladakhi villages, sits
above the village and it is well worth the walk up to have a look around. It is
a 75 year old, Yellow Hat temple (you are allowed to take photos inside), whose
main figures are Shakyamuni Buddha, Chenrizig, Maitreya (Buddha of the future),
and Zongkhapa (founder of the Gelukpa Yellow Hat Sect). It is indeed a pretty
little village with substantial houses, nice chortens and surrounded by good
fields. In fact, you may find that the village is empty as virtually everybody
is out in the fields dealing with the harvest. Nevertheless, your Sirdar and
his crew ought to be able to find somebody with a key to open up the temple for
you to have a look around. That is, of course, if the resident monk is not 'at
home'. It is quite incredible to think that this is the only village in this
valley and that it is cut off from all other parts of Ladakh and Zanskar by
very high passes. Again, it enjoys a Shangri-La setting and the people will
have seen very few Westerners.
Leaving the village, you follow an improved footpath and
after a while some parts of the path are exposed, exciting and dramatic. You
should get into camp reasonably early today and could well have time for
washing clothes, etc. You camp on a lovely area overlooking the river below
next to a river coming in from the left. The Ladakhi word for river junction is
"sumdo", hence this is the first sumdo beyond Dibling.
We
follow the Oma Chu River (Oma - Milk, Chu - water), and many times the main
River and side streams are crossed. At some stretches it's tricky to find a
way. Keeping our pace on the valley floor continue to Lingshed Sumdo.
Cost Includes
ü All Ground Transportation to & fro as per the Itinerary, Leh to Manali.
ü Leh Airport Transfers & Leh Sightseeing Tour, Manali to Delhi transfer.
ü Central Zanskar Valley Day Trip.
ü 5 Nights of Hotel Accommodation in Leh, 3 nights on (day 1,2,3), Manali 1 night on (day 22), Delhi 1 night on (day 23) at CP Plan.
ü 1 night (day 4) of hotel/homstay/tented accommodation at Mulbekh, breakfast, dinner.
17-Night Camp (days 5-21) with all Camping facilities. 3 men spacious 4-season tents for 2, Sleeping bags, foam Mattresses, Dining tent, Camp chair/table, Trekking poles & Safety gear.
ü All Meals during the Trek start with Bed Tea to Breakfast, Lunch, 3-Course Dinner, Tea /Coffee, and snacks, from Indian, Tibetan, and Chinese to Continental Cuisine.
ü Support staff: English-speaking local Trekking Guide, Cook & Camp Crew.
ü Trekking Mules, Horses for carrying Luggage & Trekking Gear.
ü Camping fees, Goods & services Tax.
ü Restricted Area Permits.
ü Basic first-aid medical kit, oxygen cylinder, oximeter.
Cost Excludes
× Domestic flight. Delhi - Leh
× Rest of the hotel in Delhi.
× Travel insurance.
× Soft or hard drinks.
× Entrance fee at monasteries
× Personal tipping to staff: Guide, cook, helper, horsemen.
× Any unforeseen cost arising from natural hazards rain, snow, or road block, which costs extra lodging & boarding beyond the trip Schedule.
The whole Trek was fantastic and a very special
experience for us. We learned a lot about the country and the people there, saw
fantastic landscapes and climbed high passes. Sherab was a great guide, showed
us a lot of animals and their footprints, even snow leopards, he talked to
everybody beside the trek and we were invited for teaand curt and chang, Ravi
Is the best cook between Manali and Leh and every day we got the best food and
Service.Deepak also was working very hard and was a good camp boy. Our horseman
did a great Job, Jai looked always for his horses, and no one was injured or in
bad condition.We can recommend you and your company from the first to the last
step. Also, you did organize everything for the best, the equipment was
perfect, the provided food and the services we booked If we come back to this
region and plan similar treks, we sure will do this with you..Best greetings
Mr. Manmayer - Germany - Couple